Which eitech Accessories Work Well for Houses and Structures

Quick answer

For house and structure builds, start with flat plates for wall and floor surfaces, then add angle bars for corners and long spans. If you want curved or rounded shapes, the Curved flat bar Ø 400 mm 30° is the piece that does a job no straight plate can. Buy a few of each in the sizes you already use, rather than a large mixed assortment.

Houses and buildings are the most plate-hungry eitech projects you can build. Walls, floors, roofs, and interior dividers all need flat surface area, and that is exactly where most starter sets run short. The good news is that the parts that fix this are inexpensive and easy to identify once you know what each shape is for.

This guide covers the structural accessories worth adding for house models: flat plates, angled plates, angle bars, and curved bars. It also explains when a part is the wrong choice, because buying the wrong shape is more frustrating than buying too few.

Flat plates: the surface layer of every house

Flat plates form walls, floors, and roofs. The Plate 9x5-hole with core hole Ø 8 mm is a mid-sized rectangular plate, and its 9x5 hole grid gives you a solid panel without making the model heavy. The core hole is the detail that matters most for houses: it gives you a fixed mounting point for a shaft, axle, or decorative element instead of forcing you to improvise with a screw joint.

When you plan a house, count the visible wall panels first. A small building typically needs four to six plates of this size for the outer shell alone, plus more if you want interior floors. Buying plates in multiples of the same part keeps hole alignment consistent across a wall, which is much faster than mixing different plate sizes on the same face.

• Buy plates in even numbers so opposite walls match.
• Keep one or two spare plates aside for roof and door framing.

Angled plates and cabs: shaping the front of a building

Some plates are pre-shaped for a specific job. The Plate driver's cab 6x6-hole is a 6x6-hole plate intended for a driver's cab, which makes it a natural fit for vehicle-style front ends, control cabins, and the boxy front sections of a building. Because it is a defined shape rather than a plain rectangle, it saves you the fiddly work of building a cab outline from several smaller pieces.

Use it when the front of your model should read as a cabin or windowed section. For a plain flat wall, a standard plate is the better and cheaper choice, because you are paying for a shape you would not otherwise use.

• Reserve shaped plates for the visible front of the model.
• Check that the shaped plate's hole pattern lines up with your wall grid before buying several.

Angle bars: corners and long spans

Angle bars carry load and hold corners square. The Angle bar 25-hole is a long, 25-hole angle bar in the eitech Manufaktur range. Its length makes it useful as a chassis rail, a floor edge, or a vertical corner post on a taller building, where a short plate would need several joints to cover the same distance.

Long angle bars are also the honest trade-off of this category: they add rigidity, but they are visible. If you want a clean exterior finish, run them along the inside of the wall line or along the base where the model sits on the table.

• Use one long angle bar per corner instead of stacking short pieces.
• Run structural bars on the inside face when the exterior needs to look clean.

Curved bars and small adjusters

Not every structure is a box. The Curved flat bar Ø 400 mm 30° is a curved flat bar with a 400 mm diameter and a 30° angle as stated in the product name. It is the part to reach for when you want an arched roof, a rounded tower, or a curved transition between two straight wall sections. Because the curve is fixed, plan the shape around the part rather than trying to bend a straight bar to fit.

Small parts matter too. The Elastic adjusting ring Ø 6 mm, yellow is a Ø 6 mm yellow ring used for elastic adjustment tasks. It is not a structural component, so do not rely on it to hold a wall. Think of it as a tension or positioning detail that supports a moving or removable element in a build.

• Sketch the curve first, then check whether the fixed 30° angle suits it.
• Keep small adjusters for moving parts, not for load-bearing joints.

How many of each part should you buy?

A simple rule: count the flat surfaces first, then the corners, then the special shapes. Plates are the highest-volume purchase, angle bars come second, and curved or shaped parts are usually one or two per model. Buying in that order prevents the common mistake of owning an interesting assortment of shaped parts but not enough plain plates to finish a wall.

If you are building one house, a handful of plates, two to four angle bars, and one or two shaped or curved pieces is a realistic starting point. If you build repeatedly, doubling the plate count is more useful than adding a second curved bar, because plates are consumed by every project.

• Plates first, angle bars second, shaped and curved parts last.
• Re-buy the parts you ran out of on your last build before trying new shapes.

Decision rules for buying structure parts

• If you are short on wall surface: Buy flat plates in multiples of the same size rather than a mix of shapes. Consistent hole grids make walls align faster and look straighter. Plates are the first thing to restock.
• If the model keeps twisting: Add long angle bars at the corners and along the base. Rigidity comes from the frame, not from adding more surface plates. Fix the frame before adding walls.
• If you want an arch or rounded shape: Choose a curved bar and design the surrounding walls to meet its fixed angle. Do not plan on bending straight parts to match it. Design around the curve, not against it.
• If you are buying your first add-on parts: Start with one plate type, one angle bar, and one shaped or curved piece. Expand only after you know which one you ran out of. Let your last build tell you what to buy next.

Parts worth knowing

• Plate 9x5-hole with core hole Ø 8 mm: A 9x5-hole metal plate from the eitech Manufaktur line, SKU 01104K, with a Ø 8 mm core hole. The core hole gives you a fixed mounting point for a shaft or detail, which is useful on house fronts and floors where you need more than a plain panel.
• Angle bar 25-hole: A 25-hole angle bar from the eitech Manufaktur range, item code 01054. Its length lets one bar run a full wall edge or corner post, reducing the number of joints that can loosen over time.
• Curved flat bar Ø 400 mm 30°: A curved flat bar with a 400 mm diameter and 30° angle as stated in the product name, listed under the Manufaktur tag. It creates arches and rounded transitions that straight plates cannot, but the fixed curve means you design around the part.
• Plate driver's cab 6x6-hole: A 6x6-hole plate from the eitech Manufaktur line, SKU 01109, supplied in the Standard variant. It gives a cab or cabin front in one piece, saving assembly time on vehicle-style fronts and boxy building sections.

Who these parts suit

Best for

• Builders making houses, towers, and other static structures who need more flat surface area
• Anyone whose current set has enough beams but not enough plates for walls and floors
• Builders ready to add a rounded roof or cabin front with a shaped part

Not for

• Builders who mainly make vehicles and need wheels, axles, or drivetrain parts instead
• Anyone looking for a complete model kit, since these are individual components rather than a full set with instructions
• Young children who still need close adult supervision during assembly

For house and structure builds, buy plates first, angle bars second, and shaped or curved parts only when the design calls for them. That order keeps your budget on the parts you actually run out of and makes every wall go together faster.